Perfection in cookie form

On July 9, 2009 David Leite of the New York Times published an article that begins as follows:

"Too bad sainthood is not generally conferred on bakers, for there is one who is a possible candidate for canonization. She fulfills most of the requirements: (1) She’s dead. (2) She demonstrated heroic virtue. (3) Cults have been formed around her work. (4) Her invention is considered by many to be a miracle. The woman: Ruth Graves Wakefield. Her contribution to the world: the chocolate chip cookie."

What a great opening to a food article, right?? How can you not be intrigued by that introduction? Leite follows this prelude with a brief overview of the history of the chocolate cookie, and then proceeds to summarize tidbits of knowledge that he gathered through interviews with a number of bakers across the City, to answer the question: what makes a good chocolate chip cookie a truly good chocolate chip cookie?

Here are some rules of thumb that he learned, and that he shares:
1.) Most argue that one should serve the cookie warm,
2.) Let the dough rest for 36 hrs. ("They just taste better," said Maury Rubin of City Bakery),

Note: later it's revealed that this method is thought to allow the ingredients to better absorb the egg and thus cook into a better consistency...

3.) Make your cookies six inches in diameter in order to achieve the appropriate texture,
4.) Use good chocolate (with at least 60% cocoa),
5.) Don't underestimate the value of salt on a chocolate chip cookie


After gathering and presenting these facts, Leite concludes his article:

"After weeks of investigating, testing and retesting, the time had come to assemble a new archetypal cookie recipe, one to suit today’s tastes and to integrate what bakers have learned since that fateful day in Whitman, Mass. The recipe included here is adapted from Mr. Torres’s classic cookie, but relies on the discoveries and insights of the other bakers and authors. So, in effect, it’s all of theirs — the consummate chocolate chip cookie."

Now this introduction might seem as if I am teasingly dangling a cookie in front of your face and not giving you any reward. No, don't whimper and cry. I have good news! Leite published his recipe. And I tested it. And I'm reproducing it here, on this blog. (Or you can retrieve the original in the NY Times itself, just in case I make some typos during the transfer).


This recipe produces a lot of cookie dough. Therefore, I was able to test the effects of different dough waiting times on cookie flavor. First, I baked a batch after letting the dough sit for 24 hours. After this first baking, I thought "Okay, these cookies are good, but they're not necessarily the best cookie ever." I was too busy to bake another batch after 36 hours, but I did bake another after 48 hours of waiting time. And WOW. This second batch was incredibly delicious. Maybe I was just hungry, maybe I was especially in need of a chocolate chip cookie that day, I dunno. This was a really good cookie. Chewy in just the right way, with a slight caramel flavor when biting in, and I love the flavor enhancing property of the salt. I've never had my very own go-to chocolate chip cookie recipe. But now I do. This is it. Maybe it will turn out to be yours as well. Might as well try it, right? Oh you know you're intrigued.

Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookies, from the NY Times

Time: 45 minutes (for 1 6-cookie batch), plus at least 24 hours’ chilling

2 cups minus 2 tablespoons

(8 1/2 ounces) cake flour

1 2/3 cups (8 1/2 ounces) bread flour

1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt

2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter

1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content (see note)

Sea salt.

1. Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

2. Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Drop chocolate pieces in and incorporate them without breaking them. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.

3. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat. Set aside.

4. Scoop 6 3 1/2-ounce mounds of dough (the size of generous golf balls) onto baking sheet, making sure to turn horizontally any chocolate pieces that are poking up; it will make for a more attractive cookie. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day. Eat warm, with a big napkin.

Yield: 1 1/2 dozen 5-inch cookies.

Note from the NY Times article: Disks are sold at Jacques Torres Chocolate; Valrhona fèves, oval-shaped chocolate pieces, are at Whole Foods.